JOURNAL: Literature Review (WIP)



 

 

PRIMARY SOURCES

 

·         Anonymous. A General Description of all Trades (1747)

·         Boswell, James ‘A Tour to the Hebrides’ (1785)

·         Burt, Edmund ‘Burt’s Letters from the North of Scotland’ (1738)

·         Campbell, R. ‘The London Tradesman: Being a Compendious View of all the Trades, Professions, Arts, both Liberal and Mechanic, Now Practised in the Cities of London and Westminster’ (1747)

·         Loch, David 'Letters concerning the trade and manufactures of Scotland; particularly the woollen and linen manufactures' (1774)

·         Loch, David 'Essays on the trade, commerce, manufactures and fishers of Scotland, Volume 2' (1778)

·         Loch, David 'A tour through most of the trading towns and villages of Scotland: containing notes and observations concerning the trade, manufactures, improvements, of these towns and villages... by order of the Honourable Board of Trustees for fisheries' (1778)

 

SECONDARY SOURCES

 

Dress History [books]

 

·         Buck, Anne ‘Dress in Eighteenth-Century England’ (Batsford, 1979)

·         Burman, Barbara and Fennetaux, Annie ‘The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1690-1900’ (Yale University Press, 2019)

·         Baumgarten, Linda ‘What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America’ (The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation/Yale University Press, 2002)

·         Cumming, Valerie, Cunnington, C.W. and Cunnington, P.E. 'The Dictionary of Fashion History' (Berg, 2010)

·         Dunbar, John Telfer 'History of Highland Dress' (Batsford, 1962)

·         Dunbar, John Telfer 'The Costume of Scotland' (Batsford, 1981)

·         Lemire, Beverly ‘Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660-1800’ (MacMillan Press, 1997)

·         Lemire, Beverly ‘Fashion’s Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain, 1660-1800’ (Oxford University Press, 1991

·         Ribeiro, Aileen 'The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France, 1750-1820' (Yale University Press, 1995)

·         Ribeiro, Aileen ‘Eighteenth Century (A visual history of costume)’ (Batsford, 1983)

·         Ribeiro, Aileen ‘Dress in Eighteenth-century Europe, 1715-1789’ (Yale University Press; 2nd Revised Edition, 2002)

·         Ribeiro, Aileen ‘Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England’ (Yale University Press, 2005)

·         Riello, Giorgio and McNeil, Peter (eds.) ‘The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives’ Routledge, 2010)

·         Styles, John 'The Dress of the People' (Yale University Press, 2007)

·         Taylor, Lou ‘The Study of Dress History’ (Manchester University Press, 2002)


Mantua-Makers [books]

 

·         Barclay, Katie and Simonton, Deborah (eds.) 'Women in Eighteenth-Century Scotland: Intimate, Intellectual and Public Lives' (Routledge, 2016)

·         Crowston, Clare Haru 'Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675-1791' (Duke University Press, 2001)

·         Phillips, Nicola 'Women in Business: 1700-1850' (The Boydell Press, 2006)

·         Simonton, Deborah ‘Sister to the tailor: guilds, gender and the needle trades in eighteenth-century Europe’ In: Ilmakunnas, J., Rahikainen, M. and Vainio-Korhonen (eds.) ‘Early Professional Women in Northern Europe, c. 1650-1850’ (Routledge, 2018)


Scottish Material Culture

 

·         Nenadic, Stana ‘Lairds and Luxury: The Highland Gentry in Eighteenth-century Scotland (John Donald Short Run Press, 2007)

·         Pittock, Murray ‘Material Culture and Sedition, 1688-1760: Treacherous Objects, Secret Places’ (Palgrave Macmillan, 2013)

·         Scott, Jenn ‘Better Is The Proud Plaid - the Clothing, Weapons and Accoutrements of the Jacobites in the ‘45’ (Helion & Company, 2018)


Women and Work in 18th Century Scotland

 

·         Sanderson, Elizabeth C. 'Women and Work in Eighteenth-Century Edinburgh' (Palgrave Macmillan, 1996)

·         Simonton, Deborah 'A History of European Women's Work' (Routledge, 1998)


Extant Studies

 

·         Kim, Alexandra and Mida, Ingrid ‘The Dress Detective: A Practical Guide to Object-Based Research in Fashion’ (Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2018)


Articles and Presentations

 

·         Arnold, Janet (1970) A Mantua c.1708-9 Clive House Museum, College Hill, Shrewsbury, Costume, 4:1 26-29

·         Arnold, Janet (1972) A Court Mantua of 1740, Costume 6:1 48-52

·         Davidson, Hilary (2015) Reconstructing Jane Austen’s Silk Pelisse, 1812–1814, Costume, 49:2 198-223

·         Davidson, Hilary (2019) The Embodied Turn: Making and Remaking Dress as an Academic Practice, Fashion Theory, 23:3, 329-362 

·         Ginsberg, Madeleine (1972) The Tailoring and Dressmaking Trades, 1700-1850, Costume, 6:1 64-71

·         Lemire, Beverly (1999) ‘In the hands of workwomen': English Markets, Cheap Clothing and Female labour, 1650-1800, Costume, 33:1 23-35

·         Nenadic, Stana (2001) ‘Experience and expectations in the transformation of the Highland gentlewoman, 1680-1820', Scottish Historical Review, 80 (2001), 201-20.

·         Nenadic, Stana (2010) 'Necessities: clothing and food' in A History of Everyday Life in Scotland, 1600 to 1800, ed. C Whatley, E Foyster, (Edinburgh University Press, 2010) 137-63

·         Riello, Giorgio (2011) The object of fashion: methodological approaches to the history of fashion, Journal of Aesthetics & Culture, 3:1, 8865,

·         Sanderson, Elizabeth (1997) Nearly New: The Second-hand Clothing Trade in Eighteenth-Century Edinburgh, Costume, 31:1 38

·         Sanderson, Elizabeth (2001) The 'New Dresses': A Look at How Mantuamaking Became Established in Scotland, Costume, 35:1 14-23

·         Taylor, Emily (2011) Women's fashionable dress in eighteenth century Scotland: a study of material culture and its meanings (Developments in Dress History Conference, Brighton)

·         Taylor, Emily (2018) 'Personality in Fashion: Case Studies of Localism in Eighteenth-century Scotland, Fashion Practice, 10:2 213-235

·         Tuckett, Sally (2009) 'National Dress, Gender and Scotland: 1745-1822', Textile History, 40:2, 140-151


Post-Graduate Theses & Dissertations

 

·         Dowdell, Carolyn Anne (2010) The Fruits of Nimble Fingers: Garment Construction and the Working Lives of Eighteenth-Century English Needlewomen. MA thesis, University of Alberta

·         Dowdell, Carolyn Anne (2015) The Multiple Lives of Clothes: Alteration and Reuse of Women’s Eighteenth-Century Apparel in England, PhD thesis, Queen’s University

·         MacLeod, Catriona (2015), Women and Work in 18th Century Glasgow, PhD thesis, University of Glasgow [embargo’d]

·         Taylor, Emily Joan (2013) Women's dresses from eighteenth-century Scotland: fashion objects and identities. PhD thesis, University of Glasgow

·         Tuckett, Sally (2010) Weaving the Nation: Scottish Clothing and Textile Cultures in the Long Eighteenth Century. PhD thesis, University of Edinburgh


Women’s Dress Construction


·         Arnold, Janet ‘Patterns of Fashion 1’ (Macmillan, 1968) and 'Patterns of Fashion 5' (The School of Historical Dress, 2018)

·         Baumgarten, Linda ‘Costume Close Up’ (Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 1999)

·         Bradfield, Nancy ‘Costume in Detail’ (Costume & Fashion Press, 1981)

·         Waugh, Norah ‘The Cut of Women’s Clothes’ (Faber & Faber, 1968)

Online

Numerous databases where one can search on women’s occupations and locations, e.g. The Statistical Accounts of Scotland

Note: Many relevant research documents and databases are behind academic ‘paywalls’ or may be embargo’d pending publication.

Coming soon...

·           Bendall, Sarah ‘Shaping Femininity’, the first large-scale study of the materiality, production, consumption, and meanings of foundation garments for women in sixteenth and seventeenth-century England, with particular focus on bodies (corsetry) and farthingales (skirt-shaping structures) as boned structures, due to be published by Bloomsbury

·           Birt, Sarah - PhD candidate Birkbeck College (Department of History, Classics and Archaeology) researching 'A Fashionable Business: Mantua-makers, Milliners and Seamstresses in London c. 1670-1770’.
Research being shared at https://afashionablebusiness.wordpress.com/

·           Morrison, Rebecca Elizabeth - PhD underway with V&A and Queen Mary University of London re Mantua-making in England in the long Eighteenth Century
Research being shared at https://www.instagram.com/rebeccae_m/

·           North, Susan 'Sweet & Clean?: Dress and Hygiene in Early Modern England', due to be published late 2020 by Oxford University Press



Recent PhD theses relevant to my areas of interest that I have not been able to access:

·         MacLeod, Catriona (2015), Women and Work in 18th Century Glasgow, PhD thesis, University of Glasgow [EMBARGO'D]

·         Taylor, Emily Joan (2013) Women's dresses from eighteenth-century Scotland: fashion objects and identities. PhD thesis, University of Glasgow [REQUEST SENT BUT NO RESPONSE]

*    Carr, Rosalind (2009), Gender, National Identity and Political Agency in Eighteenth-Century Scotland, PhD thesis, University of Glasgow. [Book: Gender and Enlightenment Culture in Eighteenth Century Scotland (EUP, 2014).]


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